IMAGES

Nepal trek, Kumbu region, October 1993 The sun is just starting to rise as the bus climbs out of the valley. At 6 AM it is pretty chilly outside so its best to ride inside the bus early in the morning. As the day warms, however, the best seats are on top of the bus. Be sure to wear sun screen because the air is thin and the sun will burn you quickly.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region, October 1993 When you buy the bus tickets try to get seats near the middle of the bus because the speakers for the radio/tape deck are in the front and in the rear. And they play the music soooo loud that it could drive you crazy if you are sitting under the speaker. On the bus I road on the front speakers were not working so the driver turned up the volume so that he could hear the rear speakers. At one rest stop I got off the bus through the rear door and I had to walk under the speaker. The volume was unreal!

Nepal trek, Kumbu region, October 1993 The bus is getting close to Jiri now. Another 3 hours or so (plus time out for flat tires) and the 12 hour ride will be over. The roof of the bus is really the place to be now.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 On the bridge at Shivalaya. The porters carry so much weight it is hard to believe. Up at sunrise they walk all day. Sure they take frequent breaks, but never for long. The typical day has one long stop for a mid-morning meal and then back to the grind until dinner and bed. A typical load might weigh 80-90 pounds (40 kg) but I saw one man carrying 6 cans of cooking oil that weighed 15 kg each. That 90 kg ((200 pounds). And I know the cans were full because I tapped on the side of each can see if they were empty. They weren't.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 The terraced rice fields are absolutely beautiful. In October they harvest the rice so some of the fields were bare. They grow 3 or 4 crop a year.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 This porters rest stop closely resembles a truck stop here in the US.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Deurali, my first night on the trail. WOW! The guide book recommends that you walk to the next village, Bhandar, but that is at the bottom of the valley. I would have missed this wonderful sunset. And the lodge here was great, the temperature outside was cold but the shower was HOT, almost too hot. I really learned to appreciate showers when they were available. Though I must say that after 7-10 days without a shower one's body seems to become self cleaning, except for the hair that is.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 A couple of stupas on the way to Seti.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 A young girl at one of the villages.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 This is a good view of the trail as in winds up and down the valley. Here you can see a couple of other trekkers on their way to Everest. I find it very enjoyable to meet and talk to the other trekers because most of them are really interesting people. Traveling alone is not really too lonely in a place like this because there are always other people to talk to.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 A pleasant looking lodge along the way. I don't remember where but it's probably between Bhandar and Seti.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 This small boy already knows how to use one of the Nepali baskets. They say that this method of carrying things is better that the western style of packframes. I'm not sure I believe it though.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993, A porter

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Just one of many beautiful flowers to be seen in Nepal.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 One of the nice aspects of the trek from Jiri to Lukla is the variability of the terrain. Here the lush forest provides relief from the sun. But 10 minutes later you can be walking across a farm.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 And here are some cows, just 10 minutes later.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 People often ask how I know where to go, how to follow the guide book and map. It's really fairly simple. As you can see, the trail is clear and if by chance you do get mixed up at a junction, the Nepali's are very helpful. There are enough tourist on the Everest trek that they all know where you are going. If you take the wrong trail they will come running after you and point you in the correct direction.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 The terraced field are literally everywhere.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 A stupa at one of the 5 passes you must cross on the way to Namche. By the time you walk from Jiri to Namchi you climb a hight almost as high as everest itself. My altitude watch accumilated about 28,000 ft on this route.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 The children are so cute but they live a hard life, one where only the strong survive. The redish color of this childs hair indicates malnutrition. By the time they turn 25 years of age they often look 40 or more.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Turist lodges in Surkhe (I think). Notice the bridge. I didn't even notice it until after I crossed over. Then I had to cross it again to take this picture. And then again to go on to Lukla.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Closing in on Lukla the mountains start to apear.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 The bridges here are fantastic. Here another trekker is crossing on the way from Lukla to Namche.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Namche Bazar (3440 meters) as seen from above. Namche is the staging ground for everyone passing to Mount Everest. Most people spend 2 nights here before moving on to higher altitudes.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Khumjung, the largest village in the area is only half a day from Namche Bazar and yet it is almost untouched by tourism.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 The path to Khumjung is lined with a long wall of mani stones.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 The stupa at the entrance to Khumjung.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 School was just letting out as I got to Khumjung and a group of children saw me. Their leader asked to play my home made traveling guitar. I built the guitar just for this trip and it attracted a lot of attention by locals as well as other tourists. The leader of the children did not want his picture taken so another kid jumped at the opportunity.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 It was cloudy most of the day I got to Khumjung but late in the afternoon the clouds opened for an instant and I snapped this picture. I had not even realized I was surrounded by mountains and then I saw this. WOW!

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 The next morning in Khumjong the sky was clear and I saw, for the first time, that I was surrounded by mountains. Incredible!

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 After Khumjung I walked to Tengboche. You can just see the trail through the trees as it makes the final clime to Tengboche.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 The monestary at Tengboche was rebuilt a few years before I got there (Must have been around 1985). This picture, taken at noon, marked the beginning of a beautiful day capped by a fantastic sunset over Mount Everest.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 The lodge where I stayed.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 A young monk in front of the Tengboche monestary.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Inside Tengboche monestary.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Sunset over Mount Everest. Everest is just visible over the ridge. See the clouds forming as the winds blow across the peak. But this picture just doesn't do justise to the real thing. At this point in my trek I felt that if I had to pack up and walk home the next day it would have been worth it. And things got better and better after that, though I don't think I ever saw a more magnificant sunset.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Another mountain as seen from Tengboche at sunset.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Hear I am on my way to Dengboche. Behind me you can see Tengboche across the vally. I had stopped to take a rest by the Stupa and as I looked back towards Tengboche I realized that this would be a good place to start getting pictures of myself (Proof that I was actually there). I waited quit a while for another tourist to walk by so they could take this "candid" shot.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 I'm not sure the name of this village, it's either Chhulungche or Rala.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Near Dengboche there is a hill (Is it a hill if it is more than 17,000 ft) that make a great day hike. The views aare fantanstic. Here you see the trail as it goes to Mount Everest Base Camp. I never went there because I ran out of time. Perhaps I'll go there next time. (PS. I did go next time)

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Here I am at the top of the hill behind Dengboche. It has a name which escapes me now but some of the guide books mention it. I called it a hill but in fact it is over 17,000 feet high. This particular day hike is not too busy but the views are great and I recommend it if you have the time.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Here I am again on the same hill. Behind me is Tengboche. Like I said, the views are fantastic.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Across the valley is Ama Dablam and a fantastic blue lake. You can't see it in this low resolution JPG but there is a tent by the lake with mountain climers. Cool! Down in the valley is the village Dengboche (Not visible here).

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 One of 3 or 4 lodges in Chukhung. I stayed here the first night and it was fine but it filled up the second night so I moved to a different lodge for the next three nights. There are several great day hikes to do from here and I recommend Island Peak Base Camp and Chukhung Rea.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 That's me the day I arrived in Chhukung. It's only a couple hours walk from Dengboche so I spent the rest of the day relaxing and doing laundary.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Me at the top of Chukhung Rhe. (18,200 ft) Incredible! What you don't see in this picture is the mountain behind the photographer. Mount Everest is only about 5 miles away (behind the photographer) but it can't be seen because there is another mountain between me and Everest blocking the view. Think about that, I'm at 18,200 feet looking towards Everest (29,028 feet) which is only 5 miles away but I can't see it because of another mountain.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 The view fro Chukhung Rhe. On the left you can see Island Peak (6189 meters) a popular treking peak.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 After Chukhung I trekked over to Gokyo. On the way I passed Pangboche (Nice village) and spent the night in Phortse. This yak was carying supplies for a treking company headed for Mount Everest Base Camp.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 This picture of Phortse gives no idea about the setting of this village. Behind me is a huge mountain that dominates the entire area.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Looking back at Phortse you can see the mountain I mentioned in the previous slide.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Near Dole I saw this yak. Did you ever see a cow as you are driving the car and roll down the window to moo at it. Well, I have and sometimmes they look at you too. Anyway I thought it might be fun to try something like that with a yak but I never heard a yak before so I just made some sort of mooing sound. In fact I tried it on several yaks but yak after yak they don't talk back.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 On the trail between Phortse and Dole (also called Ode on some maps).

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 The lodge where I stayed in Dole. Nice place.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 This kid lives at the lodge in Dole and I caught this picture seconds before the balloon popped.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 It was a fun night in the lodge at Dole. I had heard that the woman who ran the lodge (center) did not like to burn too much wood to heat the lodge (Reasonable enough since wood is hard to come by). But I started to play the guitar and some of the porters started singing songs and dancing so she came out to see what was going on. Well, she started to have a good time and so she kept adding wood to the stove and the place was very nice and warm. All in all, it was a very fun night.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 I'm getting close to Gokyo now, this is the first of the five Gokyo lakes. Gokyo is located at the third lake.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 This is the third lake, where Gokyo is located. Look at the color of the water. WOW!

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Gokyo Peak is the brown hill across the lake. It doesn't look like much but the top is 5483 meters (about 600 meters above the village) so you really start to puff the thin air by the time you get neer the top. I should know, I did it two and a half times. I'll explain that later.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 A porter near Gokyo.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 This was the lodge where I spent 7 nights. The lodge owner walks around in a baseball cap that says "Washington Redskins" on it. I never expected to see a Nepali wearing a hat for my home team. Notice the greenhouse, it is for day use by the tourists. The sun keeps the inside very very warm (too warm sometimes). But it feels wonderful, I definately recommend it. (PS. The lodge has now been expanded and is nicer than ever)

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Inside the green house at Gokyo. A Nepali guide is playing my guitar. When I left to go home I traded my guitar to the lodge owner to cover my room and board for the week. I think it was a good deal for both of us. If you ever see my guitar there send me a note. (PS. The new sun room is bigger and better)

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Cho Oyu Peak (8153 meters) as seen from Gokyo village.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Looking across Gokyo lake early in the morning.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Gokyo village as seen from part way up Gokyo Peak. About the weather in Gokyo. That is a funny story. I started to climb Gokyo Peak the first day I got there but it got cloudy so I turned back half way up. A couple days later I got a really early start because every day it was getting cloudy by 10 AM. I got half way up and had to go to the bathroom. So I walked off the side of the trail and did my thing and then proceeded to climb the rest of the mountain. When I got to the top I realized I had left my camera where I went to the bathroom. I was tired from the climb so I resigned myself to go without pictures. Somebody at the top was kind enough to take my picture and promised to send it to me. I was lucky to find my $1000 camera, it was only possible because I had an altitude watch and I happen to have noted the altitude when I went to the bathroom. Well, a couple days later I took a rest day and slept real late. As I was eating breakfast at about 10 AM and I noticed there were no clouds in the sky. So much for the rest day, I packed my camera and climbed to the top by noon. It was fantastic, I had the entire mountain to myself so I shot two or three rolls before heading down.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Another picture of Gokyo as seen from part way up Gokyo Peak.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 One of my favorite picture of Gokyo. Try it as wallpaper on your computer. Notice the glacier behind the village, that's cool.

Self photo. That's me with Mount Everest behind me. This is a self portrate because I had the entire mountain to myself that day. One of the things that makes Gokyo such a great place to see Mount Everest is that it is one of the few places that it actually looks like the biggest mountain around. Most places where you can see Mount Everest, there are other mountains closer to you that look bigger.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Cho Oyu as seen from Gokyo Peak.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Mount Everest as seen from the top of Gokyo Peak. Just to the right of Everest are Lhotse and Nuptse, and further to the right Makalu can be seen, it is the pyramid shaped mountain. Turning ones head to the left brings Cho Oyu into view though it is not visible in this photo. Still, from this one spot you can see 4 of the 6 tallest mountains in the world making this viewpoint one of the most amazing on Earth.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Makalu, as seen from Gokyo Ri

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Mount Everest (29,028 ft) as seen from Gokyo Ri

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 The forth lake at Gokyo. I'm on my way to the Nameless Towers.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Another yak.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 The Nameless Towers ahead. I scrambled up to the top of the right most tower. (18,300 feet)

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 View from the Nameless Towers, 18,300 feet. Nobody there but me. Cool!

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 View from the Nameless Towers, 18,300 feet. Looking back towards Gokyo

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Another view of Mount Everest (Center right) but it is hidden by a cloud. Seen from the nameless towers.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 A view of the glacier from near the fifth Gokyo Lake.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Another view of Gokyo Lake.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 With a long two day trek back to Lukla ahead of me I desided to get an early start and walk all day with no timeouts for pictures. So I pack the camera away at the bottm of my pack and I hit the trail. Naturally, the first thing I see is the lake. Unpack the camera and snap this one picture I think, so I did. But that was just the beginning, all day long the sun stayed out and I shot two rolls of film before I got to Namche Bazar that afternoon.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 The village of Phortse with Ama Dablam in the background.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Another cool picture of some mountains.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 The stupa with Ama Dablam in the background

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Ama Dablam (A real mountain's Mountain) with Tengboche Monestary in the lower right corner.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Ama Dablam and Phortse.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Porters carrying lumber for a new lodge.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 A steep trail in the edge of the mountain.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 Lukla as seen from my lodge window.

Nepal trek, Kumbu region October 1993 One final sunset before I fly back to Kathmandu